9th August 2023 (sunny, warm, windy) 85km

After an amazing sunset last night, the first on tour, but hopefully not the last, we both slept well and woke at 6.20am, to a beautiful day with a strong breeze.

The owner at the hotel in Melbu showed us an app he has which can reliably forecast the aurora. He said we may well have a chance of seeing it around the 25th or 26th.  We just need it to be dark enough and also a cloudless night.  It's been a long time since we last saw it and that was in Scotland, in Durness and then again on a flight, both over 30 years ago.

The original Hurtigruten clearly visible in the morning light.

We set off after restocking at the supermarket about 9.30am.  First off we had a big bridge to cross to the next island with 40kph crosswinds.  We had a footpath we could use, which we did, but still had two trucks pass us without moving over at all, even though they could and you felt they would take your elbow off if it was sticking out at all.

Once we got off the main road, it was extremely pleasant riding on empty, almost flat road, with a tailwind.  That lasted for about 20km but then we had a lot of twisting and turning in and out of fjords, with varying wind directions. 

We were only planning to go about 50km today but in the tiny community of Holmstad at the Joker supermarket, we asked two very nice checkout girls, if there was any freecamping near by.
They said everyone camps down by the fjord in front of the school, but 26kms further on was a good campsite in Myre, called Oppmyre.

Salmon farming is Norway's second biggest industry, after oil.

We had done 45km and it was only 1pm so as we sat and ate lunch on a bench outside the shop, we discussed what to do. The last 20km of this morning's ride had been undulating and much of it into a headwind.   Lunch followed by ice-cream perked us up though so we decided to push on to Myre.  That would make it a 76km day, but at least the wind was with us for most of it.  However, it was bloody hot riding.

Swimming is not quite such an appealing option when the tide is out.

Hey, we're from Taranaki, we know how to work a puddle.

Around 3.30pm we pulled into the campground and paid 200 NOK including showers.  The wind was strong and blowing straight off the fjord and our tent was first in line.  Managed to get set up before Julia decides a swim is on the cards.  She'd found two really nice beaches, so, off we cycled to find them.  It seemed to take forever to reach them, but finally after climbing a couple of hills, we came upon the first one.  Although the beach was nice, with white sand, the wind was coming straight at us off the water.  I'd say the water was 13 or 14C, so we were only in for a few minutes.  It did feel good though, after riding in the heat all day.

The beach we swam at.

The other beach.....maybe tomorrow. 

Ju wanted to see the other beach over in another bay, so we hiked over the hill to get a glimpse.
Same problem, wind straight off the sea.  I think, if the wind drops, we'll stay here tomorrow and have a lazy day swimming and lounging on the beach.

View from the campsite.

Rode to the supermarket for supplies and then back along the main road, which seemed to take forever.  Back at camp, we sat in the dining room for drinkies, before Ju got a shower and I carried on with the blog.  I must say, the view from here is incredible.

Had a delicious dinner tonight. Good old Mexican rice with cooked chicken, mushrooms and avocado.  For once our dinner looked the most appetizing in the camp kitchen tonight.

It was a lovely evening so we tried sitting outside looking over the fjord which was now delightfully still instead of a howling gale as it was when we first arrived.   However, with no wind to keep them away, the midges were back in town, and soon had us scurrying back inside the dining room again. Man they are pesky!

Not sure what we'll do tomorrow as apparently it's going to rain in the afternoon.  So much for a week of fine weather! We'll see what it looks like in the morning. But for now there's not a cloud in the sky and not a breath of wind either.  At 9.30pm it's too hot to be wearing anything but shorts and t-shirt, so we'll be sleeping in just the silk liners again tonight.