3rd August 2023 (very windy, rainy, mild) 10km

After rain and wind during the night, what woke us this morning was these big ugly crows.

They make a helluva noise and are bloody horrible.
To make matters worse, they were pecking away at our bikes.
I know I've mentioned it before, but the bird life here is like no other it seems, with the  " bird song".
Every morning since we began, we've never woken and thought, "ooh what a lovely bird call."
It's been " give me a frigging rifle and I'll  go kill me some birds"
As Julia said, " You can see where the expression,  'Stone the crows' came from. 

So, today we have some distance to travel.
In part, it's to keep us off the main road, which has become extremely busy in this "tourist hot spot"
However, buying food, which I must say is always a priority for me, is scarce around here.
It's fine if you're in a car, because fifty or sixty kilometers, takes no time.
But a fully laden bike......

It's currently 6.37am. The rain has ceased, but the wind is definitely there.
We live in hope that it will be a tailwind, as it seems to be " blowing up a storm".

Well, the wind only got stronger.
After we'd eaten breakfast, we packed up the tent in a strong wind, fortunately we were somewhat protected by a big campervan parked virtually alongside us.

Norway's answer to Stonehenge

Hit the road at 9.20am and it was really nice being on a minor road with just occasional traffic.
Turned toward Svolvaer and immediately felt the wind increase. Didn't think anything of it initially, until it became a problem keeping upright and on the bike without getting blown to one side or another.
Headed around a fjord and came upon a campground.
Decided that it was too dangerous to carry on and enquired about a cabin.
Took one for the night and just as well as it soon began to rain, becoming quite heavy.

Julia had a shower then we threw some clothes in a washing machine, which was free.
Then half the load in the dryer.

Ju here: I don't know how Pete does it.  Yesterday he was most upset with the campground we stayed at because there was no laundry sink.  I was puzzled why anyone would want to do their washing at 6pm when it was about 14C and rain looked imminent,  but mine is not to reason why.

He was extra indignant with the signs above the bathroom sink telling people not to do their washing there. 
"What are people supposed to do?", he ranted.

Faced with no option than to wait until the next camp, we set off today in blustery conditions.   When blustery turned to galeforce after just 10km, we turned into the next campground,  principally because they had a cafe.  But the wind was really trying to tell us something and was getting more and more insistent.  So at 10.15am,  I was inquiring at Reception about the price of a cabin.  No water, no power, no bathroom, 550 krone per night, about $90nz.  With kitchen, running water and power, 900 krone, (or $150nz) per night.
We took the cheap option as we're fully charged anyway and can just use the camp facilities.   That way we can eat at the cafe for lunch and dinner, which we have to do as no shops near here.

But the big bonus of stopping here, was..... they had a free washing machine and dryer!  We quickly got all our clothes together and chucked them in the washing machine as bikepackers kept struggling in all day.

As we sat snugly in the kitchen with a hot cuppa, we felt very smug knowing all our clothes were being washed before anyone else had sussed there were free machines to be had. Pete's worries about ever getting his orange t-shirt washed again, had suddenly evaporated.  Of all the days to hole up against the weather and of all the places to do it, we happened to pick the one campground with free machines.
We have been beyond lucky on this trip. Back to Pete. 

As we were expecting to be 40 odd kms down the road, where there was a store, we basically had no food, except some cereal for tomorrow morning.
This meant buying lunch and dinner at the cafe.
For lunch, two Toasted sandwiches with fries and a piece of snickers cake.
It was all very nice and then we wandered over to the kitchen / dining for one of our own coffees, as all they had in the Cafe was that filter coffee rubbish.

Met a Swiss woman who had cycled from Finland.
Apparently, she loves Lapland and has been there four times.
She was saying that the weather is usually cold and wet.
Aah.....that's why it's not called Spain.....

So we get back from lunch to check how the washing is doing.
Put some in the dryer, but only half, otherwise too full.
Another woman is there doing two loads of washing and expecting us to leave our second lot til after her.
Julia takes charge and puts her squarely in her place, with a smile of course.  But this is the first time in two months we've used a washing machine or dryer and she's not giving it up til she's finished.

The cabin we have has no power, no lighting, but an old style coffee maker, which plugs into the wall..??
It's about as big as a matchbox, but it's dry, as our clothes will be at any moment.

The weather is still all over the place.
The rain appears to have stopped, but dark clouds are ever present.
The wind, which had eased half an hour ago, is back with gusto.

Passed the time in the dining /kitchen room, organizing an extra hotel day in Tromso .
This is because the day we were due to pick them up, is a Sunday (you got it... God's day) no pedaling bicycles for him on a Sunday. He's got his clan preaching around the world that day.
As expected, it is more expensive, plus we contacted the bike shop we were supposed to be getting boxes from and....surprise, surprise... we have no boxes.
Julia persisted with her search and came up with Ski & Cycle, out by the airport.
So, what we'll  have to do is, check into hotel, bus out to airport, pick up boxes and return to hotel.

At least then we have the same hotel.
We can relax and box them up, knowing we don't have to change hotels.
At 6.30pm we wandered across for dinner at the restaurant.
I could hear my wallet crying from my inside pocket and when Julia ordered a wine, I swear my heart flat- lined for a few seconds.  I had to have a large beer to steady my pulse.
I've been looking online and you can get some great holidays in Ethiopia.
All expenses paid holiday for 3 months for just $10.
And free marathon training...bonus!

We've been checking out the weather for tomorrow and that wind is still very high.
We'll  assess it in the morning and make our decision then.