8th July 2023 (sunny and warm) 52km

After 10.15pm last night, not a jet engine to be heard.  It was made up for by our loud and obnoxious neighbours, who give tent dwellers a bad name and for some insane reason seem to think they are the only people in the vicinity.  Up drinking and talking til midnight and when we think we'll get our own back in the morning,  they're up at 6am with the radio on, talking and slamming car doors.  Goddammit, we were looking forward to shaking out the groundsheet and bashing the tent pegs together to disturb their sleep.

After waking at 5.30am to an overcast morning, it was back to bed for an hour before the previously mentioned were awake and totally ignoring the etiquette of campground life.  Swedes this time and old enough to know better, but no respect for others....only people on earth.  It's only Abba that are keeping the Swedes up there in my popularity stakes.

The midges were out in force again as I took down the inner tent, then escaped to the lounge area for a cuppa and some breakfast.  Didn't get away this morning until 10.15am.  Firstly we contacted Gary in Belfast and had a good talk to him, followed by Georgina, who is finding it very hard to shake off this sickness that she's had for two weeks now. She is well over it.

Rode 3kms down to the ferry, once again, timed perfectly. Straight on and off we go.  Heading for Aure today, about 45kms away.  Julia struck up conversation with an eighty year old guy on the ferry ride (didn't look it) who was a former teacher.

He, like a lot of people we've met, was going to his summer cabin on the island with his wife for three days.  (To their own summer cabins I mean, and presumably with their own partners, not with his wife).  Even though we've been cycling out in the wops a lot of the time, you never really feel alone as there's always a house or cabin in sight.  And we think we've figured out this supposed patriotic fervour with all the flag flying.  We believe flags are put up to indicate when someone is home, or occupying their cabin.  That way, if you need to borrow a cup of sugar, you know if it's worth trekking 2km uphill to the nearest cabin.

Off and riding. Good road surface and gentle gradients. Could handle that all day.  Some ferry traffic both ways, but nothing too major.

Once again we were by the sea for a lot of today and the sky was blue with a light breeze and stunning vistas.

Cycled to Leira, where we bought lunch, but it was another hour of cycling before we had a chance to eat it.  We were now pushing into a head wind, nothing ferocious, but the climbing was increasing in intensity.  Came upon a lovely lookout with gorgeous views and beautifully constructed picnic benches and thought this'll do for lunch thanks.

It was after lunch we decided to catch a flight to Croatia 

Not too much further on we stopped for an ice cream and then continued.  So, the end of today's ride is closing in and as quite often happens, the climbing increases.  Had a hefty climb then a big downhill heading into our destination of Aure.  But wouldn't you know it, the downhill was a cover for some more climbing, before another big downhill and a tunnel, into the town.

We figured we should get some more money out at the bank, but the machine wasn't working. Into the supermarket for our big shop for the week.  Collected everything we'll need for tomorrow and asked where the campsite was. No one seemed to know anything about a camp, which was concerning.

I now had a backpack on and we had that big climb to get out of town.  About 3km out was the campground Ju had earmarked for our stay tonight.  We pulled up outside and it looked decidedly closed.  Just then a girl cycling home on her bike stopped and explained that the guy who owns it, lives miles away and it doesn't operate anymore. She also suggested that it should be fine to freecamp there.

The barrier arm at the gate entrance wasn't padlocked, so we pushed our bikes through and down to the waters edge.  A walkway led out over the water to a small island.

We quickly ditched Croatia for an over the water fale in Samoa

We could see three girls sunbathing on the island, so we stayed on the sandy shore and went for a dip.  The water temperature was around 20C with some cooler spots, but lovely.

The girls left soon after and Ju and I sunbathed on the beach for an hour.  Walked across to the island wondering where to pitch for the night. The ground was quite lumpy everywhere and the grass was also long.  We try to avoid long grass as we're nervous about ticks and also the morning dew can make you very wet if you have to wade through long grass to get to your tent.

Took some more photos then I wandered up to have a look in the cabins.  Tried the door and "hey presto" it opens. Wow, what unbelievable luck. Firstly to find this gorgeous place to swim, right when we needed it at the end of the day and once the girls left, having it all to ourselves.  Then to find an open cabin, to have somewhere to escape the evening bugs and the wind which threatened to whip up at any time.

Well,  we don't mind if we do, thanks!

So here we are inside this cabin, just the way it would have been when they packed up and walked away.  Too good an opportunity not to grab, so we moved in, bikes and all and as I write this, it's 8pm, the sun is sinking slowly over the sea and we will sleep inside tonight.

Usually when we pick a freecamp spot, suddenly 20 dog walkers will appear out of nowhere.  We were also a little concerned it was Saturday night and you might get a few teens coming down here and drinking illegally,  but nobody came and we had it all to ourselves.