28th July 2023 (sunny and warm, intermittent fog) 20km

 

Last night I was curious to see just how many others had chosen the 10.30pm ferry and was surprised when we saw the queues as we arrived at the ferry terminal.  I was equally surprised when the ferry docked about 10.10pm and watched all the cars drive off.  I thought they'd finished, then they start driving up from the basement of the ship.  We also had so many going over to Lofoten that many vehicles had to go into the basement. We just hoped they didn't have the same idea as us to go climb Reinebringen at 3am.

It had gone quite cold with the fog that rolled in as we waited, so Pete and I had layered up.  We also took a bag each upstairs with extra layers, and we're very glad we did.  Even though the ferry was chocka, it was quite cool and we needed those extra layers.  We were lucky we were on first and nabbed a booth area where we could both lay down, which we did for all but the last half hour of the journey. I managed 3 hours of good quality sleep, Pete a bit less.  I was trying hard not to think about Lofoten as I was worried the excitement would keep me awake.  We've seen the photos and we just hope reality lives up to them....and that we continue to be lucky with the weather. Over to Pete.

At 9.30pm last night we were at the ferry terminal along with a boatload of cars, campers and trucks.  There were a dozen pedestrian passengers, a few of whom had come across from Moskene to witness Bodo beat Bohemians from Czech 3 - 0.  We were the only bikepackers on board when we came upstairs to the cabin area.

Unfortunately there were no plugs for charging, nor any wifi, so before the vehicle passengers arrived upstairs, we were asleep...or at least appearing to be.  As always, Julia slept soundly until twenty five minutes from docking.  I managed to doze, but had to endure two women with monotone voices droning on about God knows what.  At one stage I nearly leaned over the seat and said
"Please, please put a bit of animation into your conversation, nothing can be that boring, surely."

With an hour to go I sat up, ate a muesli bar and watched how quiet the passengers were.
Most were probably just tired because it was early morning, but there were a few who looked a bit peaky.  Coming into Moskenes at 2.30am was amazing. Huge mountains, many of them partially covered in fog, but still with an awesome presence.

Our bikes had been hemmed in by a bunch of motorcycle riders who had their bikes chained to the floor in front of ours.  However, by the time the boat docked we all rolled out together.

Beautiful views on the way to the base of the climb.  Again we felt lucky to have our bikes as there is no car parking available at the base of the Reinebringen steps.  You have at least 2km to the nearest carpark.  With the bikes we just locked them at the base of the steps.

We waited for all the motorists to depart and had the road to the Reinebringen to ourselves.  By 3am we were on our way up the 1.1km, 1980 step climb.  Believe me, it certainly got a sweat up, even though the higher we climbed the further into the cold mist we went.

Having a breather and admiring the view before the final push.

By the time we reached the viewpoint overlooking Reine, the sun was doing its best to break through the fog.  Even at this hour and from this point, it was a spectacular sight. 

 

Ju here: Having shed layers on the way up, we were now hastily putting them back on as the fog brought arctic coldness with it.  There were three guys up there already who said it was better before the fog started to roll in and then headed back down the steps.

Pete and I agreed we'd give it a bit longer as we had come a long way to see this.  It was a magical time, just us up there, watching the changes minute by minute.  Big valleys full of cloud  slowly dissipating out to sea or into neighbouring valleys. A time lapse video would have looked amazing but we didn't have that sort of battery life to play with.

As the sun began to rise higher in the sky, the clouds began to disperse and the warmth started to return. And the mountains began to fully reveal themselves.   Some views are just so beautiful,  so magical, they almost make you want to cry. Or maybe that was the pains in my legs.

This seemed almost too beautiful for this world...like we'd gone that far north, climbed so many steps that we'd somehow managed to find our way to heaven....despite predictions to the contrary.

So we climbed a little higher.

And the fog lifted.

Wow! Talk about lucky.  All this to soak in and just us up there.

You take your eyes off it and see there's magnificent views all around you.

But your eyes keep getting drawn back to this.....wow!

Then a group of four came up and it was time for us to leave, as the fog started to swirl around the mountain tops again.

Pete back again: We stayed up there for at least an hour, just gazing at an incredible scene, one which we won't witness again, but, we are so glad we saw together.  We were astounded at the effort it would take to lift those huge stone steps into place. It would have to involve a helicopter and some serious manpower.  We are talking 1km of steep cliffs.

The way down was difficult on the knees, but soon we were stood at the bottom having seen ten other people go up.  It was still not 6am and we set out to see the village of Reine up close and personal.  No one was about except the few on the road early, or working.  This allowed us to cruise round the entire community, which is spread over little islands, without the worries of tourist traffic.

I don't know if they keep the fish off the drying racks for tourist season or if it's the wrong time of year for them....but either way, we're glad.

The water is extremely clear and we could see loads of fish, probably rejoicing in the fact that it was tourist season.

You can see the fog over Reinebringen totally ruining the party for anybody who started their climb after 6am.

As we ate breakfast the fog really started to move in and the temperature plummeted.  We were so glad we didn't go to bed and made the most of the light.

The forecast had been for better weather, but you get what you're given.  Rode all over,  snapping away until we found a covered shelter and two Brits, Will and Jen.  They are on a hiking holiday here.  Both are Physical Education teachers and Outdoor Pursuits.  They have eight weeks holidays.

Ate a nice breakfast, rode to the shop and then rode back to where the ferry docked, which was also the site of the campground.  It was chocka.  Not allowed to check in til 12pm, if.....there are spaces available.  Currently waiting for confirmation.

Whilst I've been writing, Ju has sneaked into the women's for a shower.  Be just my luck, they won't have a space.  But I'll grab a shower anyway.....

Just after 12pm. We're in !!

3.16pm. Just woken from a sleep and the sun is blazing. Could do with a swim but not sure of options, might check it out.  We were both in such deep sleeps.  Julia reckons I was snoring, but I reckon she was sleeping so deeply, that it was the sound of the waves on the rocks.  But hey...if Julia wants to believe it was me and it makes her feel good....so be it.  God....I'm a helluva guy.....

So, the swim became an ice cream.
Ju here....just thought I'd mention when Pete woke me up from a very, very deep sleep, I still felt half asleep as I went to escape the heat of the tent and was seized by debilitating cramp in my right thigh.  I just couldn't move so just had to knead my leg until the pain abated. I don't usually suffer from cramp but I guess my legs really felt those steps today on top of the last 8 weeks cycling.  Back to Pete.

Decided I'd have a shower and do some washing before the hordes arrive.  No wonder these camp owners only work summer.  They could make more in a month around here than I make in a year.
To say that it's a constant stream, is not an understatement.  And when they're full, you're history.  Spent the afternoon writing and did some stretching, whilst the washing dried.  One minute these mountains are all around you and it's hot, next only part of them are showing as the fog moves in and it's gone quite cold.

Julia has been researching this trip since 2019 and we have been watching vlogs on Norway since 2021.  This morning, on top of the Reinebringen, all her efforts were realized.  I'm so happy for her because it was a ton of work to get us to this point, but as we expected, " You have to see it to believe it."

We hope to stay another night and travel south to Å for a hike (that's right, pronounced Or,) tomorrow, then come back just a little north to do another hike.  At 5pm we had our usual drinkies and nibbles before treating ourselves to another new flavour from Uncle Ben's 2 min rice series.  Thai fried rice tonight with grilled chicken pieces and an avocado chopped up into it, very tasty.

Our usual milky coffee and muffin to follow, all the while working on the blog and selecting which photos will make the cut, from a beautiful elevated position above the camp at our own little picnic bench.