20th July 2023 (sun, cloud, mild) 53km

Up at 1am and boy, was it cold.  Really noticed the difference, just that bit further north.  Don't want to imagine how cold it's possibly going to be, but after talking to some people who have been in the arctic circle, even in summer, they've said it is fine one minute and single figure the next.

Weather was looking fine.  Overcast, but not cold at all at 7am, so after our usual delicious breakfast, we packed up the tent and took the leisurely 10km ride along a very smooth road to Horn.

 

We don't often get photos together.

Arrived at the ferry in plenty of time, boarded and began charging our phones.  This is one of the aspects that we're continually having to think about.  Any opportunity to get power we have to take, as we don't know if we'll be out in the wild, or even if a camp will be connected.

This morning was supposed to be raining, but it changed overnight and now any rain we get isn't meant to come in til 5pm.  It's pot luck, but it is pretty close to the mark.

This coastline is full of big mountains and incredible rock formations and we're looking forward to our ride today, weather permitting.

Arrived at the ferry and met a guy from Switzerland, cycling to Nordkapp.  It's amazing how many people have this goal.  He's a student with the summer off, so plenty of time on his hands.
When we docked on the other side, he was off as fast as he could go, to try and catch the ferry at the other end of the island, 17kms away.  He had 50 minutes to get there.  Don't forget to take some photographs....

Julia and I rode the next 15kms side by side as we had no one else on the road.  About 2kms before the terminal we found a Bibliotek, which was open, not that you'd know it, as all the lights were off. But the heating was very definitely on, nobody about whatsoever.   Thought briefly about what a great freecamp this would make.  All we wanted though was the loo, oh and some light reading like War and Peace.  One out of two ain't bad.

As per usual, departure time was bang on at the ferry and we were on our way.  On the other side was a Joker supermarket.  That's one where they ask you if you'd like a particular item and when you tell them what it is, they say "Sorry....haven't got that in stock. Ha ha."  Bought an ice cream first, then did our shop for dinner and breakfast.

Now we had 27kms to our next camp ground.  The road, although busy, was a nice surface and we were rolling nicely along.  The wind had dropped and although overcast, it was nice riding weather.  The scenery today was mainly massive rocks. Beautiful to see close up and huge in size. The light kept hitting these rocks at different times, creating changing colours as we moved along the coast.

With about 9kms remaining, we saw a sign for a monument to Petter Dass.  This guy apparently was a Lutheran priest and one of the foremost poets of the time.  At the same place was a beautiful church called Alstahaug. The monument to Petter was a column, with nice views across the bay.

The backs of these gravestones show nicely the different colours of rocks around here.

That is a big old slab of granite.

On our way up to see the monument. 

The big attraction round here is Peter's column.

Not usually a drawcard, but there you go.

Nice view from the top.

That's a very flash looking museum on the left.

Thankfully it was closed.

From the monument, we cycled the remaining 9kms to the campground.  Our bed for the night is outside another airport.  "I don't bloody well believe it!"  Been here a couple of hours now and haven't seen a plane come or go, so maybe not so bad.

I made a huge mistake today.  When asked if we had rice for dinner, I said we did, when in fact, we did not.  Consequently, we will be eating our breakfast for dinner and will cycle 12kms in the morning to the next shop for breakfast.

Met another German cyclist here called Peter. He is around 67, retired and is a long distance cycle tourer having completed a number of journeys over the years.  This one he began in Finland and then into Norway and he's now on his way home.

I'm thinking that because he's older and quieter, he probably doesn't get the chance to talk to a lot of people, which I think is sad.
Everyone has a tale to tell and something to give.
Whilst we were in the kitchen talking, another German (it's like an invasion) came in.  He's been to Nordkapp.  Said that for the final 200km, there were no trees or scenery of any kind.  It was 5C and the wind was constant.  The 7km tunnel was extremely dangerous and the camper vans were totally oblivious of the danger in the tunnels for cyclists.

You drop 210metres under the ocean before the climb back up to sea level.
At first the fumes are overpowering, until you get used to them.

We had thought about doing Nordkapp, but had read articles on the ride there.
I get why people go there, to say they have.

In 1989, Julia and I circumnavigated the UK. Lands End and John O Goats were all geared up for the tourists and for us it cheapened the whole experience.
It was like a cheap side show.

All you have to do is look at what they've done to the climbing of Everest.
As long as you pay your money, they'll get you up there.....
No guarantee they'll get you down however.
And you're literally queueing on the mountain for your moment on the top.

This is the reason we choose to do our own routes and to do it on our own.
There will always be the Instagram shots taken at places around the world, but we're seeing those places on a daily basis.

So...all being well....weather will be kind again tomorrow.