16th July 2023 (drizzle on and off, cool) 49km

We had a great campsite last night, probably the first that we haven't taken a shot of.

It was next to an astro turf football pitch, which was part of a sports hub, including other pitches, athletics etc.

Plus a full sized football pitch, indoors, for when the snow gets too much to play outside.  The whole complex was massive. I'm just sorry I didn't take any pictures.  Anyway, that's a huge bonus for children and adults in this neighbourhood.

Having a campsite next door to this facility however, is a downer for campers.  Until 10.30pm last night, there were huge amounts of people playing footy. With all those people comes shouting.  Hey, I get it. I used to be one of those.  The last person, who was still hammering a ball into the netted area, finished at 12am. No darkness.... no worries.

Next door was a couple with a husky puppy. As soon as the football stopped, the dog started barking, at anything.  Once they had that sorted, bugger me, the girl starts coughing. One of those emphysema coughs. She was only in her early twenties I'd guess.  Needless to say, I was awake early and at 5am when Ju woke, we decided to break camp to try and get a headstart on the weather that's coming in.  All packed up by 6.30am and heading out of town.  That was a mission in itself, but eventually we were on the Coastal route to Sjoasen, where we hope to spend tonight.

Talk about a baptism of fire.  Hills straight away.  Not long, but steep.  Then the rain comes in, just slow enough to taunt you.  Do I get my wet weather gear on and sweat like a pig, or chance it?  The rain settled in and we knew we would have to find shelter or get drenched.  But there was nothing.  All trees with the occasional farm and no suggestion of shelter anywhere. 

Our hopes lifted as we cycled into a little village but we were through it all too quickly with no joy and getting wetter by the minute.  As we came around a bend, we spied a football club, with....could it possibly be.....yes!  A covered area and no less than four benches to choose from.  The perfect place for breakfast.  What's more, there was even a plug so we could charge our power bank.  That is currently where we are, sheltering from what has been a decent downpour.  The temperature has dropped, but we have our warm gear on.  Hoping for a long enough break in the weather to get some kms under our belts.
Time currently is 8.41am on God's Day.
Every day is God's day, so I've heard.......

What a sanctuary from the weather.

Rode on over undulating countryside with some  steep climbs, but good road surface and we were making good time and avoiding the weather aside from the odd drop.  Had two tunnels to contend with and neither posed any problems. One at 1km and the other 600 metres.  Both good surface and well lit and a temporary reprieve from the drizzle.

We were monitoring the weather as we rode and touch wood doing okay.
At Namdalseid we pulled into a Shell Service station, where we ordered two burgers and chips and a coke to share for lunch from an ex British soldier.  He was in the Parachute regiment for twelve years and had spent time in Norway on exercises with the Norwegian forces.  He married a  local girl and bought the station cum Cafe and hey presto.  His name was Adam and was very interesting and it was so good to converse freely in English. He obviously appreciated that too as we sat chatting for an hour and a half.

About half an hour later, we pulled into Sjoasen campground.  The owner was a hard case and told us that we were the third Kiwi bikepackers to have come through this year.  And here's us thinking that no one from NZ would be here.

It may have had midges by the thousands,  but it also had a lovely outlook. 

Positioned ourselves down by the river, midge and mosquito alley, but apparently, tents are second class citizens to camper vans.  Next door to us are a Dutch couple called Yolanda and Willem.  Lovely folk who were giving us information about various stops and free camps up and around Lofoten.

Showered and washed some gear. Hung it in a drying cabinet and took some coffee and nuts over to the lounge/dining area.  By this time, the thunder clouds were rolling in. Spent some time in there writing and catching up.

To get here today without  getting particularly wet was amazing, however, unless the forecast changes, we are going to be lucky to move much at all, for the next week.

The camp was well positioned and had everything we needed.

As time went by, we were joined by Yenz, a German guy who we chatted to for about two hours. He's also a bikepacker, but he's out for his first tour. He's still sussing out what and what not to take, where to pack gear etc. Nice guy.

Next into the kitchen was Caroline, a woman travelling on her own through Norway for a month.
She was from Northampton, just up the road from my Uncle Ray.  Such a hard case, she was sleeping in her car just down by where we were pitched.

Whilst she started cooking her dinner, we took off back to the tent, where Willem and Yolanda had an open fire going. Apparently the fire will keep the bugs away.  Sat talking to them until another German bikepacker, now living in Innsbruck, in Austria, arrived.

Alex setting up his tent.

His name was Alex and he was soaking wet. He'd been caught in the thunderstorm, further back down the road.  He was riding a beautiful Salsa, carbon, gravel bike and he'd ridden 130kms today.  He said he had spent the past two days riding in the rain, so we feel we've got off pretty lightly.  He took off to shower and put some of his gear to dry, including shoes, whilst we chatted.

Caroline came and joined us, then Alex returned.  Yolanda gave him some food they had leftover to save him from cooking and we all sat talking.  However, even with the open fire and smoke, those frigging midges were terrible.  It made sitting still uncomfortable, but the company was so good.  A young couple who had just got married came and joined us.  They were on their honeymoon for a month in Norway, but had spent time here before.  Nina was her name, but we didn't get his.

By 11pm, I couldn't hack the midges any longer, even though I had put bug repellent on, so both Ju and I retired to bed. The others continued talking, but I was gone, out like a light.