25th June 2023 (sunny and hot) 60km

OMG...Wow that's amazing....Look at how big it is....that's incredible....it got to the stage today, where I just had to tell Julia to stop looking at me with my pants off.  Well....maybe not....but, the amount of times we were using those superlatives on our ride today, was unbelievable.

The views at camp this morning. 

Up at 4.46am and took the powerbank to the dishwashing/laundry area, where the only plugs were. Did some stretches and was joined not too long after by Julia.  Had a cuppa and then got stuck into breakfast of fruit, cereal and yoghurt, before finishing with a coffee.

Tent pack up went smoothly, but I left my bike computer in the tent inner, consequently we didn't have any idea of mileage today, though we did work it out later. Then we skipped camp.

A word here about the lost speedo. I love how Pete just glosses over this major catastrophe, when in actual fact, it went something like this.

We had just finished packing up the bikes when Pete sees there's no speedo. "OH shit!", he says, "where the hell did I put that?"  A quick check of his two shorts pockets, nothing, was followed with a quick check of his two jacket pockets, again, nothing. So a more in depth search of all four pockets ensued with everything being emptied out and Pete becoming more harried and swearing under his breath when no speedo was forthcoming.

Perhaps you should check the front bag I suggested. I would have helped him, but I was holding his bike up.  And who would want to ruin this self-created game of hide and seek?

So he emptied out the front bag, becoming more and more agitated.  I was tempted to remind him we were supposedly trying to be quiet, but thought better of it.

He looked at his bike all neatly loaded up, his washing lined up symmetrically over the top of the tent bag and I knew he really didn't want to spoil his handywork to find the speedo.

"Did you leave it in the pocket of the tent inner?" I suggested.   Yes, he thought maybe he had, and I assured him I could work out our mileage, so then we hit the road. Now, back to Pete.

The first 10kms to a crossroads was flat and quick. Lots of kayakers on the river this morning  and lots of whitewater too.

We weren't exactly sure what the day would hold riding wise today, but it had started pleasantly enough that we were looking forward to the journey ahead.

Eng-a-land! Eng-a-land!

That was about to change. Turning left at the crossroads and heading for Vikoyri meant in fact that we had to climb for the next 3 1/2 hours and it was to be our hardest riding yet.

The sun was out when we left the crossroads, but as we were in a gorge, it was quite cool.  We were taking a gradual incline, which kept us warm, despite being in the early morning shadows. The road was quite narrow as it wound its way up the gorge but there was still the odd truck and bus plus a multitude of campervans.

We at last broke into the sunshine into alpine meadow country and half expected Julie Andrews to come running across the grass singing "the hills are alive...." 

We thought we must surely be near the top now as we passed the Myrkdalen Ski centre, but still we climbed, rounding a bend into a valley.  At the end of the valley loomed a huge wall with five steep switchbacks cut into the face.  As we pedalled closer towards our unavoidable fate, we noticed a massive waterfall off to the left, to try to keep your mind off the climb. 

 

Ferist or fearist?

Well... it wasn't going to do itself, so off we set, consoling ourselves with the thought that at least we could see the top, and soon, or not so soon, it would be over.

On the second switchback we stopped to talk to two German motorcyclists, who owned a couple of 1955 machines. One of the bikes had done 300,000 kms and still sounded beautiful. They were on the way back from Nordkapp (the North Cape, top of Norway) to finish a 7000km tour. They applauded us as we continued upwards.

 

However....there's always a however. The top of the switchbacks was not the top of the climbing. As we crested that part of the climb, we could see the road stretching onwards and upwards into the distance. It just went on...and on...and on.

 

We struggled up this bit and were nearly at the top when we pulled over for a breather and got chatting to a Swiss couple in a campervan.  We asked if they could take a photo for us and they said "yes, anything for such a brave effort!"  However 'anything' did not extend to changing modes of transport we discovered. 

Thanks Swiss couple!

We carried on with our last ditch effort to reach the top, probably only another 500 metres, rounded another bend and could see the road ahead traversing off to the left over what surely must be the top.  We couldn't actually see where the road tracked through the snow at the top though so we were a little worried.  

We agreed we needed some food before we tackled that, so sat in the shelter of an electricity box to eat some lunch. Three and a half hours after leaving camp and we were spent and absolutely dreading the climb up the beast that sat before us. But we had to admit the views were magnificent and the weather perfect.

So we loaded up the bikes again after lunch (at least there was less to carry now), rounded a bend and into another spectacular scene, made all the better because we could see our road peeling off to the right along the flat. Yee-haa!!

For the next hour we rode along the plateau gazing in awe at the scenes for just over an hour.  Then we started the descent, which was so steep, it had us hauling on the brakes the whole time to avoid going too fast and flying out of control.  Mentally I thanked the fact that we had disc brakes and not those old rubber V brakes as we would have worn down the pads before we were halfway down.  The ride down took us an hour, finally arriving in Vikoyri at 3pm and the entrance to this lovely town was stunning.

In Roldal, we had visited the second oldest stave, wooden church in Norway. As we entered Vikoyri, we paid a visit to the oldest one of its kind in Norway.  It was amazing. So different to anything we've seen before anywhere.  Obviously we didn't pay to go in, but the outside was interesting enough with lots of intricate carving.

By now, we were tired and just wanting a camp to pitch and enjoy the rest of the day, off the bike.  Found a great campground down by the fjord.  The owners weren't there, but had left a note to pitch and they would catch us up.  After warnings from Julia that this place was liable to be expensive as it is obviously a tourist town, we had the pleasure of finding it to be our cheapest camp yet!  Only 140NOK per night, so we booked in for two. After today's efforts, we knew our bodies needed a rest, much as we wanted to push on to make the most of the weather.

It's a beautiful camp, not crowded at all, plenty of lush grass to pitch on and right by the beach and the supermarket.   After pitching the tent we walked straight to the beach as by now it must have been 30C and we were sweltering.  Enjoyed a lovely dip in the Sognefjord and a little sunbathe to dry off.

There was a small exclusive cruise boat anchored, ferrying people to and from the boat to look around. I would say thirty people max. Can't imagine the price of that. Bet they're not eating mackerel from a can, with unbuttered bread for lunch or dinner....don't know what they're missing.

Swim and sunbathe (water about 19C), decided it was time for an ice cream. Toffa, I think you have some competition here my son.  The caramel one was particularly tasty..!

Over at the service station (only place open on Sunday apart from the churches), we purchased some goodies for after dinner, then wandered back for a gourmet, sausages in spaghetti.
People often wonder how I became so frivolous with money, but I just say
"Hey...nothing's too good for my wife"

It was now 7pm and the sun had gone, but the light would be with us til at least midnight. It's funny, because we bought eye masks to bring with us, thinking we may not be able to sleep. Let me tell you, that as soon as our heads hit the pillow, we are gone.

Tonight marks the end of our third week.
It has been amazing, awesome, unbelievable and magnificent.....
Ju...you've got to stop this when I drop my pants.