21st June 2023 (overcast, cold, drizzle with rain in afternoon) 56km

Had a good night's sleep in the little cabin and it was very warm too.  Awake at 6am with only breakfast to be had and our gear to be secured to the bikes.

It was going to be a hard one today. We were climbing even higher into the mountains and for a lot of the 60kms we would be on the main route, the E134, hence a lot of trucks and campervans, to go with the cars and motorbikes.

Left camp at 7.30am on a nice road. For the first hour, we weren't really affected by the traffic. Everyone was being courteous and we were cruising along nicely considering the terrain.  We have actually found the gradients over the past two days, very manageable.  Certainly not our hardest climbs.

The weather was overcast, but not cold. All in all, quite a pleasant climb but the forecast was for rain to come in around 11.30am, so as well as taking shots, we also had to make headway.

We were climbing steadily and the snowline was getting closer and closer, as was the first tunnel.  This tunnel was open to cyclists but at 1600m long, would not be very pleasant.  The recommendation from other cyclists was to go over the top as the climb wasn't that bad and the views were worth it.

So we climbed a bit higher to take the cyclist only road and....Wow!  What a spectacular view!  We were absolutely blown away and excited to have this amazing 2km stretch of road all to ourselves.

We were absolutely rapt we had come on this route and thought our timing was impeccable,  as if we'd come here any earlier, we may not have been able to get through due to the snow.

But as we progressed, our excitement was tinged with trepidation as we saw the road climbing higher into the snow.  We also saw the second tunnel and the cyclist road going up to the side of it, through snow, but the road had been cleared by a snow plough.

We had just pulled over to discuss whether or not to ask a campervan for a lift, but decided to go on up to the second tunnel and see what it was like.....and hope this was the high point.

I was really wondering if this was going to be safe and maybe we should ask a campervan to ferry us through the tunnel, and maybe the next three while they were at it!  However we decided to plough on ourselves, but the more we gained elevation the more ominous the snow conditions looked.

On the road with no cars, for about 5km, just us.

I wondered out loud why no cars came this way and Pete reckoned it would be due to the avalanche risk.  Very quickly our conversation was down to whispering, and only when necessary.

We climbed a lot higher than the tunnel entrance and literally over a snow covered mountain pass.  We couldn't believe the views and the fact we were up here, on a Norwegian mountain, just us and our trusty bikes.

It was spectacular. Every 100m was a different angle to get another photograph and every photo was stunning. If you wanted to create memories that will last forever, this was it. I am so glad that we are doing this together.

Before today, I was thinking I could have left a whole drybag of clothes at home, but today they were all needed.  As the amount of snow increased,  so the temperature dropped and the layers went on, despite the climbing.
As it was I had thermal pants and waterproof pants on and the trusty dry steppers because the threat of rain was always imminent but we only got a little bit of drizzle now and then.  On top we just had 2 layers and a rainjacket.

When we stopped to take photos,  which was frequently,  we were very aware of the freezing wind so kept the stops brief.  This meant that Pete did the whole ride today on just breakfast - unheard of!

The third tunnel we were allowed through and it was only 500m long, so no drama.  The fourth tunnel we easily found the road we needed to take around the outside and were busy in the middle of the road, taking photos,  when suddenly a long line of traffic comes the other way. It appears they were doing work in the tunnel and diverting all the traffic round the old road.  It would not have been a very nice road to drive, especially in a campervan as it was very skinny.  It certainly was an unwelcome surprise for us.

All the clobber on for this mostly downhill section.

Next thing, we're at the entrance to tunnel number 5, a 900 metre long, very well lit, well surfaced tunnel.  Officially we weren't meant to go through it, but with the traffic being held up from the previous tunnel, we had it all to ourselves.

Out the other side and it's 10kms downhill into Roldal.  The traffic never caught us the whole way down. Straight into the Shell service station for some pastries and two coffees, as by now it had been five hours and the only food Pete had eaten was half a chocolate bar.

The village of Roldal.

Spent the next hour there, warming up and reflecting on what we had just done.  We are proud of ourselves.  Today was certainly not easy, as reflected by the complete lack of other cyclists up there.  But fortune favours the brave and the rain held off and we had a very memorable day. 

The campground was just down the road, so we pitched our tent to the side of a cabin, hoping for a little shelter.  But just like that, the wind swung. Now we have to hope that Vango is up to the rain, which is forecast all night.  The camp owners don't start up again til 4pm, so we're also hoping they don't ask us to move.  The supermarket is literally 100m to our left, we are practically able to eat as we sit here.

I put a post on Facebook after this morning, but I just want to mention how wonderful Julia really is. Those climbs this morning would have stopped most people in their tracks. Not only does she get the job done, but she does it all while smiling.  To have a life companion like that, to enjoy these trips that we do, is like winning the lottery for me. I'm the richest man in the world.
Now...that said....off to the supermarket..!!

The supermarket wasn't very picturesque so we snapped a photo of the local church.  Went to go inside for a look but they were charging 80NOK each!  That's 8 chocolate muffins, each!

Sorry mate, no contest there!!

Stocked up for dinner and breakfast in preparation of some even bigger climbing tomorrow.
Into the showers which were awesome and then got the washing out of the way, hoping for some sunshine...maybe not?
Into the kitchens, always a place for a chat and to gain valuable information.  This time a German guy Uli from Cologne who is travelling Norway in his van and hiking.

Not sure how tall they will let the trees grow on the roof before they will chop them down, but I'd say the day is coming soon.

It's now 7pm and the heavens have opened.  We can only hope that Vango will come through for us. We've made a couple of changes that we're hoping will take the strain off certain seams. Watch this space.